FESTIVALS
& FIESTAS
January:
The first sumo tournament of the year, Hatsu-basho, is held for fifteen days at Tokyo's Kokugikan in mid January.
February:
The last day of lunar winter falls during the first week with the celebration of setsubun. At Yasaka-jinja in Tokyo, butterfly-like maiko dancers swing to the lilting twang of ancient lutes  (biwa). Throwing symbols of luck - red azuki beans - into the crowed, they chant, "Out with demons, in with good fortune".
April:
From early to mid April is O-hanami (Cherry-blossom viewing), one of the important spring rites. People love to
turn out and picnic, drink sake and sing songs under the pink blossoms.
On the 8th is Hana Matsuri (Birthday of Buddha), when commemorative services are held at various temples such
as Gokoku-ji, Senso-ji, Zojo-ji and Hommon-ji.
May:
In mid-May, the Natsu-basho (Summer Sumo Tournament) is held for fifteen days at Tokyo's Kokugikan.
The huge Kanda Festival, also in mid-May, is one of Tokyo's most important festivals, held every other year. Processions, floats and portable shrines parade through this downtown area.
The 15 May Hollyhock Festival (Aoi Matsuri) in Kyoto features a splendid parade in which participants wear Heian period costumes.
On the 3rd Saturday and Sunday, the Sanja Matsuri is held in Tokyo. This is one of the big Edo festivals honouring the three fishermen who found the image of Kannon in the river. The Asakusa-jinja (Senso-ji) is a great place to go at this time to see the dancing, music and many portable shrines.
June:
Kifune-jinja, dedicated to the god of water, celebrates the rainy season in a vibrant water festival in Kyoto. Torchlight performances of Noh plays are held 1-2 June at the Heian Shrine.
From the 10th to the 16th is Sanno Sai, another big Edo festival featuring a gyoretsu (people parading in traditional costumes) on Saturday at the Hie Shrine.
July:
From the 6th to the 8th is the Asagao Ichi (Morning Glory Fair), when over one hundred merchants set up stalls selling the morning flower at Iriya Kishibojin, Tokyo.
The biggest festival in Kyoto is the Gion Matsuri, dating from the 10th century. On 17 July, floats decorated in elaborate Chinese and European tapestries parade through town with hundreds of participants in traditional costume.
On the last Saturday of July, the Sumida-gawa Hanabi Taikai (Sumida River Fireworks) is held. This is the biggest fireworks display in Tokyo, and the best places to watch the display are between the Kototoi and Shirahige bridges, or at the Komagata Bridge.
August:
Between the 13th and the 16th is the Obon festival, when people return to their hometowns to clean up the graves and offer prayers to the souls of departed ancestors. The traditional Bon Odori folk dances are held all over Tokyo around this time. On 16 August at 8pm, on the five mountains around Kyoto, gozan okuribi sends the spirits of the dead back to the other world with spectacular mountainside bonfires in the shape of immense Chinese characters.
September:
This is the neutral month of Zen. Mid-September is the time for moon-viewing, with numerous events across Kyoto. Osawa Pond, behind Daikaku-ji, has been known since Heian times as one of Japan's three great moon-viewing sites. Massive crowds.
October:
This is the month of dress-up and strange happenings. The Bull Festival at Koryu-ji is known as one of the "Weird Festivals" of Kyoto. Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages) climaxes the Weird Festivals and apexes October's round of fancy dress. Some 2,000 participants lead a parade through town representing famous people in Japanese history, dressed in their traditional styles.
December:
On the 31st at the stroke of midnight, every temple bell throughout the country begins to toll. The bells toll 108 times representing the 108 evil human passions. This is called Joya no Kane, and the general public is allowed to strike the bells at various temples. People dressed in their finest kimono head for the nearest temple or shrine to pay their New Year's respects.
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